Mexico 22, 15th April
Yesterday afternoon I went on an walk they've built, with 3 observation towers. I didn't see a darned thing except for a tiny hermit crab and a
couple of ordinary looking birds. So in the morning I went round the walk again. Similar result, except I didn't see the hermit crab. I wandered a bit further and found a few mosquitoes, that's all.
So although I had found a super parking spot right on the beach I've decided to leave. I actually asked one of the fisherman if I could stay for the night where I was parked then, near the restaurant. Oh no he said. Too much noise, go down by the beach. No question whether it was OK to park for the night, he didn't even consider that. Too much noise he said! There is a noisy generator in the village but it switches off at 10 pm so then it's candles, batteries or bed.
I got back to Tulum in only 5 hours. I got stuck again once going back but by chance only had to wait a few minutes until a truck came along and pulled me off the rock. There's not a lot of traffic on that road, you see about two other vehicles per hour, and I've only seen 6 trucks in total. They are small trucks hardly bigger than my RV but with way better ground clearance.
In Tulum I checked email, talked to the internet shop owner, and parked in my previous spot by the beach. Continuing my move south I visited the ruins at Muyil in the morning. The pyramids are steeper here.
There was an interesting walk through the jungle. To give some idea of scale the length of three tree trunks showing in the middle of the picture is rather more than 6 ft (2 m)
There was a cave with bats
and later a butterfly hitched a ride
I half planned to stop in Limones for the night but the plaza was surrounded by fairground rides so I thought not. I headed on to Bacalar where my book listed 2 inexpensive campgrounds. Unable to decide which one to try first I looked at the plaza which was deserted apart from a couple of policemen by the police station. There were people about but they were all round the high street shops. It stayed quiet all night. This is Bacalar from the Lagoon where the water is totally clear, in many shades of blue, being supplied from freshwater cenotes or sinkholes in the 61 km long lagoon.
The fort was unfortunately closed for renovations, but I admired the colour of water in the Azure Cenote then continued to Chetumal, on the border with Belize (formerly British Honduras). I toured the wonderful Maya culture museum, visited the ruins at Oxtankah, and the city museum showing how the city looked before it was totally flattened in a hurricane 30 years ago.
I've parked in a parking lot fronting Chetumal Bay which looked great when I came here. Turns out it's another young persons meeting spot, music at full blast, highly tuned and noisy engines being shown off to admiring friends, loud conversations. If they don't go soon it'll be me who goes, no big deal, there are small parking lots all the way along the waters edge.
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